Sunfish Grill - Outstanding Seafood

by Tim Slivinki

Sunfish Grill has remained a consistently high quality restaurant since its inception in Pompano Beach. Today, however, with Chef Bill Bruening’s return to the Sunfish, it has moved into the outstanding category. I have followed Chef Bill as he cooked for a few other fine restaurants in the local area, and I have always found his preparations and attention to detail to be top-notch. He has taken the Sunfish Grill menu and added his own touches.

Beginning with appetizers, I sampled the Braised Littleneck Clams, the Crab Charlotte, and the Duck Confit. Each is unique and tremendously delicious. The clams are tender and served in a “you have to finish it even though you know you shouldn’t broth” of capers, tomatoes, and shaved garlic. Be certain to ask for more of Sunfish’s interesting bread to sop up the remaining broth—it’s that good! The Crab Charlotte is brimming with fresh crab wrapped in a crown of thinly sliced cucumber, seasoned with an herb emulsion and plated with avocado jam. It’s almost too pretty to eat, but do it anyway. Each bite is fresh and tastes like an ocean breeze. It’s a combination of flavors that please the palate. The Duck Confit is a hearty appetizer and large enough to be a light dinner. I will confess: I love duck! Chef Bill plates the duck with Kabanos sausage and white bean and rapini ragout. Juicy and moist, the duck is a perfect foil to the ragout. I love the addition of the white beans to this dish.

Before I move on to entrée selections, I must put a word in for Sunfish Grill’s soups. Quite simply they are among the best I have ever tasted. On a recent visit the daily soup was Forest Mushroom. It was served hot (as soup should be) and tasted of earthy, mushroomy goodness. Unlike so many soups out there, salt was not the predominating flavor. Two mini conch fritters kept company in the center of the soup bowl, and their slight crunchiness contrasted beautifully with the velvety smoothness of the soup. The shrimp bisque, featured on other nights, is not to be missed either. Order it if it’s on the menu.

Pan Seared Diver Scallops were calling my name on a recent Saturday night, so I gave in and ordered them. Scallops can be tricky: too slimy if undercooked; rubber balls if overcooked. The scallops did not let me down. Beautifully seared with a slight brown crust, they were tender and moist inside: perfection! The Maine Lobster and Sweet pea Spaetzle that accompanied the scallops was a clever, unique pairing that I dove into with satisfaction. All of this was topped by a light Lemon-Thyme Beurre Blanc— a fantastic mix of flavors and textures on the plate and Chef Bill’s signature. His accompaniments, sides, and sauces are never an afterthought. Care is taken to match each main course with food and sauces that show it off in its best light. No mere dollop of mashed potatoes here!

My dining partner ordered the Pan Roasted Duck Breast. A beautifully prepared and aromatic sliced breast was served with fork-crushed rutabaga, Forest Mushrooms, and Port Wine Demi-Glace. I begged and cajoled and was finally offered a taste (or two); I know what I will be ordering on my next visit. The duck was elegantly pink inside and tasted as properly prepared duck should. The rutabaga was a great substitute for typical potatoes, full of earthy root vegetable goodness that, even in South Florida, says wintertime!

I almost never order dessert, but on my last visit, a chocolate bread pudding was the featured sweet to end the meal. For some reason, bread pudding is one thing I can rarely say no to. I am glad I didn’t: Dark chocolate and rich with a dollop of whipped cream and Crème Anglaise—need I say more? Pair it with a glass of Quady Black Muscat and it’s close to heaven on earth.

Sunfish Grill offers an intimate dining experience that is comfortable and quiet with white tablecloths and flattering candlelight. David, our server, was knowledgeable about the night’s menu and the evening’s features, very willingly offering suggestions when we asked. Service is never obtrusive, and Sunfish is definitely a destination for leisurely dining. If you have not put it on your list of places to dine, do so. It offers a truly first rate dining experience.