Since
hitting the big screen that fateful weekend in 2005,
Brokeback Mountain ignited a fiery GLBT love affair (and
profound carnal lust) for the cowboys and snow-capped peaks of
Wyoming. The romance between Heath Ledger and Jake Gyllenhaal
and that unforgettable “spit” scene renewed a lost bond between
gay men and the American West. But more than
phenomenal acting and a gratuitous soft porn scene, the movie
showcased jaw-dropping landscapes that often stole the spotlight
from Jake’s baby blues and pronounced crotch bulge.
Though “Brokeback Mountain” is a fictitious
place, the raw nature of Wyoming is very much a reality. And
while the 1960s homophobia depicted in the film prevails
throughout much of Wyoming, tourist-centric Jackson Hole has
evolved as a liberal enclave in the land of lassos, grizzlies
and western studs. In fact, on the outskirts
of Jackson Hole and Grand Teton National Park, Spring Creek
Ranch (307.733.8833;
www.springcreekranch.com) welcomes the GLBT community to
bask in the frivolity and fantasia of one of America’s most
beautiful natural playgrounds.
As the name implies, Spring Creek Ranch is
indeed a ranch, but don’t expect strapping hunky cattle herders
with chaps to interfere with your activities. This is a luxe
“dude ranch,” catering to guests seeking a modern “Wild West”
experience of horseback
rides, toasty fireplaces, chuck wagon dinners, easy access to
Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, and the full range
of woodsy, rustic chic cabins and mountain homes offering
inspirational panoramas. Spread over one thousand acres of
serenity, the ranch’s fabulous accommodations begin at the
economical price point of $170/night for “Inn Rooms,” graduating
to more spacious “Condominiums” and maxing out at around $2000
+/night for 5000 square foot “Mountain Villas.” Just because
it’s super gay friendly doesn’t mean you’ll find rainbow flags
in the lobby; it is simply an all-welcoming ranch that has
staunchly supported the gay community since its opening day.
With each passing season, both the ranch
and the surrounding landscapes assume new personalities,
ultimately succumbing to the omnipotence of Mother Nature.
Winter’s snow ushers in stark panoramas of white, snow-flaked
elk scavenging for remaining plant life, opportunity for
exhilarating dog sledding and snowmobiling, and of course
award-winning skiing. In fact, Spring Creek Ranch shares its
downhill skiing slopes with uber-exclusive and ultra-expensive
Amangani, a private enclave within Spring Creek Ranch.
Amangani may garner accolades year after year as a top skiing
destination, but sure enough the prized slopes and views are no
different for guests of Spring Creek Ranch.
Spring Creek Ranch leads wildlife safaris
throughout the year, scouting the best locales to observe and
photograph Wyoming’s charismatic species.
Perhaps the best season to visit the surrounding Grand Teton
National Park (www.nps.gov/grte) and
Yellowstone
National Park (www.nps.gov/YELL), however, is in
spring, when the surroundings grow once verdant, and newborn
wildlife abound. While both national parks
remain open year round, the majority of entrance points and
interior roads close during the harsh winter months, reopening
in late spring. Wyoming’s colors are in full bloom by summer,
when the national parks unveil the most brilliant blue skies and
stunning layers of green in picturesque mountain meadows; and
resident wildlife frolic and fraternize in what feels like
extended summer recess. But more than mountains, buffalo, elk,
and wolves, Yellowstone showcases the globe’s most extraordinary
geysers and hot springs, facilitating a hydrogeological rapture
that’ll blow your mind. Yellowstone’s active volcanic turf is
home to half of the world’s geysers, none more predictable than
Old Faithful, who shoots his load (of hot water and
steam) like clockwork every 91 minutes. The liquid rainbows
produced by bacteria living in the Giant Prismatic Spring
rank as one of the most remarkable sights I’ve seen in 15 years
of professional travel. Further north in the park,
Yellowstone’s “Grand Canyon,” wows onlookers, a 900 feet
deep, half-a-mile wide demonstration of nature’s sanctioned
power and prowess.
I was seventy countries deep into my
travels when I finally made it to the American West last July. I
had combed the world over to pen my thoughts on Earth’s most
exotic, remote and iconic locales, only to discover this
pinnacle of beauty right here in America’s backyard. At risk of
growing sentimental and even cheesy, I’ll conclude by telling
you that a trip to Wyoming’s national parks is fantastically
experiential and that Spring Creek Ranch is one place in the
American West where you can live out that Brokeback Mountain
fantasy. Jake Gyllenhaal won’t be there to guide you, but your
own mountain memories will supplant and even triumph over the
vivid movie in your mind.
For more information visit
www.springcreekranch.com.