Though mass tourism of the seventies and eighties had severed all associations between luxury and Grand Bahama, ironically the hurricanes of 2004 blew away the touristy riff raff that had become the island’s Achilles heel. In the wake of Frances and Jeanne, Grand Bahama has begun to rebuild and return to its more illustrious period circa 1958, when it rivaled Cuba as the vacation grounds for wealthy Americans.

Grand Bahama’s revival is concentrated in the West End district in a region known as Old Bahama Bay. Heavy public and private investment to the tune of 5 billion has translated into the construction of a new marina, a private airport, refurbished docks, an expansive golf course, restructured inlets, bike paths, and secluded beaches - an overall tropical utopia for luxury homes, condos, and resorts.

At the westernmost reach of the West End, Nandana resort (www.nandanaresort.com; 877.220. 0737; 212.621.0350) rises from the Caribbean blue as a palatial Thai-inspired mansion segued between Earth and sea through placid waters of the surrounding 120’ infinity pool. The architecturally inspiring oceanfront wat impresses with soaring 40’ ceilings, oversized outdoor shower lounges, Burmese teak and stone clad interiors, and a 2000 square foot air-conditioned safari tent fashioned after the Indian campgrounds at Aman-i-Khas. The resort comfortably accommodates one dozen, regularly tended to by an entourage of smiling attendants and service professionals trained in the Maldives. During mealtimes two dedicated chefs ingeniously combine Florribean flavors with Peruvian and Cuban influences for novel gastronomic experiences. At all times, the resort’s 50' deep sea fishing yacht, 20' tender, bikes, jet skis, motorbikes, DVD library and well-stocked bar remain at guests’ disposal.

Nevertheless, it’s the natural raw beauty of Grand Bahama combined with Nandana’s magnificence that fosters the most lasting memories. Spectacular sunsets viewed from the infinity pool, mountains of conchs on barrier islands, the reflection of enormous red and orange starfish in shallow waters, the downy sands on isolated beaches, and the everchanging shades of blue in a single panorama - together with Nandana’s glorious infrastructure - revive a time bygone of exclusive Bahamian hideaways.

Outside of the West End, a more stripped back and subdued Grand Bahama prevails. A single artery, Queens Highway, connects the West End to Grand Bahama’s capital, Freeport. Void of most the casinos and cheese of its heyday, Freeport is now a simpler port city with a renovated pier catering to cruise ship passengers and decent duty-free shopping. East of Freeport, another sole highway, Grand Bahama Highway, links the rest of the island. True island life east of Freeport is quiet and simple; and the beaches are plentiful. Some of the softest sands and bluest waters are found in Lucayan National Park near the island’s midpoint. Below the walking trails and the sparkling beach areas, Lucayan’s underworld gives way to six miles of caves, caverns, and tunnels.

Come nightfall, Grand Bahama’s gay nightlife is very much on the down low. So much so that the seven of us who visited never discovered the rumored gay club in Freeport. It wasn’t a big deal however. We boys (and our token straight girl) made our own fun at Nandana. In what became a nightly ritual, the hotel’s super welcoming, gayfriendly staff fed us fresh conch fritters and late night Bahamian treats while we downed late night champagne in the fabulous infinity pool.