Connecting the landmasses of North and South America, the isthmus of Central America boasts extraordinary landscapes of rainforest, cloud forest, beaches and mountains over small distances between the Atlantic and Pacific.  Once ruled by the Mayans, northern Central America retains a robust indigenous population with 22 different indigenous languages in Guatemala alone.  The history and legacy of the Mayans remain ever-present at exquisite ruins, none quite as intact or impressive as Tikal in northern Guatemala.  

Most savvy LGBT travelers head south of the border for the region’s infamous eco-tourism and visits to the spectacular Mayan ruins and charming colonial towns. However, many leave the isthmus disappointed with the gay life. Unfortunately, outside of the homo haven of Costa Rica and pockets of Panama City, Central America is highly homophobic. Nevertheless, stubborn travelers will still insist on spending a few nights at other gateway capital cities, determined to discover a clandestine GBLT life. Seek and you shall not find! 

Whether Tegucigalpa (Honduras), Guatemala City (Guatemala), Belize City (Belize), Managua (Nicaragua), or San Salvador (El Salvador), you will instead discover dilapidated and sketchy downtowns or disjointed commercial centers, peppered with a few notable straight bars and restaurants on side streets that come alive at night.  City dwellings suffocate in protective bars and barbed wire, revealing high levels of violent crime. There are few national monuments and museums worthy of visiting. You will invariably find yourself asking the question, “Why am I here?” when beautiful landscapes beckon just a few hours east, west, north or south. 

In general these capital cities posses very little touristic appeal to the average visitor but amazing, opulent lifestyles to the small affluent local populations privy to private schools, social clubs, and Western eateries. Beyond the perimeters of el centro (the city-center), select prosperous neighborhoods house a Central American bourgeoisie that have adapted to life in these capital cities as top of the food chain. These households import top of the line vehicles, own vacation homes in Miami, farms in the countryside, go clothes shopping abroad, and party like rock stars in their hometowns. Indeed, unless you have personal friends living in the capital, literature alone cannot provide enough insiders’ information to guarantee an enjoyable and safe experience. Parties revolve around festivals and events, with venues changing constantly; and a private vehicle is necessary to party-hop and house hop across towns and even cities in search of fun. There is no way around it - you need to be with somebody in the know in order to successfully discover your capital gateway! 

The Yellow Brick Road Leads to San Jose

Luckily, the open gay scene of Central America is easier to find and follow, but that is mainly because it’s so small and centralized.  In particular, San Jose, Costa Rica is rammed with gays; enough to warrant six gay venues and to merit a party-time stop over. Similar to the unflattering but realistic descriptions above, San Jose is a hard sell as a stand-alone city break but fun enough for a two-day visit en route to greener pastures.  

Most clubs in San Jose charge a cover of roughly $7 to $10 US dollars, which grants entry and barra libre (open bar) until 1 or 2 am. Yes - drink all you want for one flat price!  The party starts on Wednesdays around 10:30pm at El Bochinche (Calle 11, between Avenidas 10 and 12, bochinchesanjose.com), a two story, freshly remodeled classy video bar in the heart of downtown, with the best in pop music from around the Americas and insanely entertaining drag shows. El Bochinche packs a full house on Thursdays, too. And prepare to wait over an hour to enter on Saturdays, their most popular night. Friday nights belong to the awesome, high tech dance palladium, Club Oh, formerly known as Deja Vu (Calle 2, between Avenidas 14 and 16; clubohcostarica.com). The less trendy La Avispa (Calle 1 Avenida 8 and 10; laavispa.co.cr) welcomes a wide range of locals and foreigners alike for a huge Sunday tea dance which extends well into the wee hours. La Avispa also hosts a Tuesday night crowd pleaser; and every night of the week except Sunday, the strip bar/dance club Puchos (Calle 11 and Avenida 8; puchosnightclub.com) combines dance tunes with fully nude dancers, flaunting hard bodies and mildly average endowments on compact 5’5” frames.  

Beyond San Jose, Costa Rica is a magnificent, gay-friendly country with an impeccable tourism infrastructure, satisfying the Gringo hunger for adventure and tropical beauty. Sometimes, hardcore travelers such as myself complain that Costa Rica has become an “Eco-Disney,” catering to the whims of demanding American and European tourists and losing the true rustic experience. Nevertheless, very few have the time or patience for raw, third world travel exploits; and the facilitated infrastructure is a welcomed attribute for those seeking the immediacy of Central America’s beauty. Costa Rica’s nature will undoubtedly wow the senses, and the charismatic hummingbirds, coatis, sloths, squirrel and howler monkeys will charm the camera lens. Everyday life is defined by “pura vida,” a saying and philosophy meaning pure life, which guides ticos (Costa Ricans) in their amicable interactions with visitors. Your first memories of active volcanoes, mind bending zip lining, and treks through the rainforest will you leave you aghast, secretly feeling like Columbus when he first discovered the New World.

Gay Paradise Found - Manuel Antonio

Three and one half hours southwest of San Jose, the beach town of Manuel Antonio combines the gay experience with the eco-tourism experience.  A resplendent retreat where the mountains and rainforest meet the Pacific Ocean, the small town of Manuel Antonio offers gay resorts, a national park, esoteric coffee shops and restaurants, a gay beach and even gay watering holes over a distance of two short (but steep) miles. For over ten years, Villa Roca (Reservation Link) has drawn LGBT visitors from far corners of the globe to delight in mountain top views over the Pacific. The resort’s infinity pool is arguably my favorite in the world. Sipping cocktails during happy hour, watching the sun set into the forest canopy, hearing the calls of the howler monkeys, and watching naked hotties jump into the clothing optional pool, I have experience some of life’s great “moments” in the pool at Villa Roca. Since 2003 I have visited the resort fourteen times, my home away from home when I lived in Costa Rica and still my favorite vacation spot on the cheap. In low season, most rooms run well below $90; and they include Wi-Fi and a fabulous breakfast (with great gallo pinto) overlooking the ocean. Hotel guests split their time between sunbathing and drinking at the pool, trekking to the remains of the former gay, nude beach called “playita,” and enjoying the nature trails of Manuel Antonio National Park. In between, milkshakes, coffee, and sandwiches at the quaint Cafe Milagro (cafemilagro.com/manuel_antonio.htm) allow the seductive tropical ambience to sink in.  Life here seems simple and sweet. Indeed, it is.  

At night, visitors are spoiled for choice with spectacular dining options. My first stop is always La Cantina BBQ, located across from the Costa Verde hotel, for fresh, marinated fish on the barbie with grilled local vegetables. For an early sunset dinner, I dine at Barba Roja, again specializing in seafood dishes; and for a good bite, light on the pocket I choose the upstairs of Agua Azul. After dinner, Manuel Antonio even has a gay bar, called Bar Tutu/Bar Latino, located at the top of the Eclipse Hotel and open 7 nights a week. Don’t get too excited - most people at the bar will be the other guests from Villa Roca, plus a few locals, and a few prostitutes. For a bit more excitement, the recently opened Liquid Lounge attracts a decent crowd on Saturday nights with visitors from neighboring towns. With a national holiday spanning 10 nights, Manuel Antonio goes totally pink during Semana Santa (Easter week), when they gays overrun the beach and the town for an over-the-top throw down. During this week (March 26 - April 4 in 2010; April 15 - April 24 in 2011), all hotels, beaches, and venues are filled to the brim as the majority of the country’s GLBT population congregates for a week of partying, hedonism, and relaxation.